As you may have read elsewhere in this issue, you can get to Ludington over water, on the last of the Lake Michigan ferries, but to make that trip you have to drive to Kewaunee, Wisconsin, first, and from that point on the scenery, though rare, is rather predictable. (The ferry will take your car. See page 7 for details.) The more conventional route goes around the lake via I-94, I-196, and U.S. Highway 31. Ludington is halfway up the mitten of lower Michigan, about 240 road miles from Chicago.
Next stop, Holland–where they really do have tulip farms (and a tulip festival every May), a 200-year-old windmill with 80-foot sails that actually grinds grain, a wooden-shoe factory, and lots of people with real Dutch names. This is a good spot to drop off your mother-in-law. She’ll be as happy as a bug with all the gift shops and shopping malls. Pick her up on the way back, and when Christmas rolls around, prepare to try on your wooden shoes. (Holland information can be obtained by calling the Holland Convention and Visitors Bureau, 616-396-4221, or the Chamber of Commerce, 616-392-2389.)
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How about a bed and breakfast? There are the 1880 Inn on the Hill (716 E. Ludington Ave., 616-845-6458) and the Ludington House 1878 Bed and Breakfast (501 E. Ludington Ave., 616-845-7769), both open all year. Bringing a child? Kids are welcome at Grandma Mary’s Bed & Breakfast (809 E. Ludington Ave., 6l6-845-6577).
And the writer’s favorite: Scotty’s (5910 E. Ludington Ave., 616-843-4033; a reservation might save a wait). Scotty’s will serve you a slab of prime rib that would make your cardiologist turn pale. There used to be a restaurant like this in the town where I grew up, and I do believe all those grade-A prime cuts marbled with expensive fat knocked off an entire generation of Elks and Rotarians. They went down, as I recall, with smiles on their florid faces. For those of you who lack the courage for this kind of red-blooded living, Scotty’s does fish and chicken just fine. Shucks, you can even tangle with escargots.
Best farm stands: Something is always in season–asparagus, strawberries, cherries, blueberries, peaches, pears, apples, grapes, squash, potatoes, and finally huge bags of what folks up this way call “deer carrots.” (You see guys in red hunting caps buying these things, for what purpose I cannot imagine.) The best stand is the Grassa Farm Market (2442 West U.S. 10, 616-843-8020). In October, look for the local apples and the fresh cider.
Things to watch out for: the dreaded Michigan blackfly, which during spring and summer will eagerly draw your blood. The dreaded Michigan state trooper, who does not know or care who your clout is. The ubiquitous Michigan sand, which will accompany you home and remain in certain orifices of your body for months to come.
