No two people I’ve discussed Wishbone with can agree on what to call the neighborhood it’s in. Since gentrification, everyone’s confused by all the new names for old places: River North or North Town, where Wishbone is located, at Grand and Wood just west of Ashland, is really West Town.
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The place looks more like a luncheonette than a restaurant, with gray formica tabletops and a counter and stools. Since the front room only seats about 40 people and we were starved on a recent visit, Laney cased the joint to see if anyone looked like they were ready to leave. There was a bridal shower in progress in the tiny claustrophobic back room, which made it seem smaller and noisier than ever. This is also the room set aside for nonsmokers, unfortunately the same people whose sense of smell isn’t too dulled to notice the odor of garbage. The two bikers behind us in line went to the counter, but only after making sure that they weren’t cutting ahead of anyone. That figures; it’s the suits who knock you over to get a table.
After about half an hour, we were seated–and there on the table, just waiting for anyone, no matter how unworthy, was a plate of wonderful zucchini bread and corn muffins with cheese and onions. We both chose from the slate of specials. When I ordered the panfried chicken with mashed potatoes, coleslaw, and corn muffin ($5.95), our waitress asked if I wanted breasts. Mother Nature never treated me that good. My potatoes came with the essential pool of gravy in the middle, and the yankee coleslaw was of the delicious vinegary variety.
Wishbone prides itself on its use of fresh ingredients. Its cuisine emphasizes southern cooking, especially Cajun, but there are other choices as well. Entrees range from about $5 to $10. The regular menu includes Hoppin’ John, blacked-eyed peas on rice topped with cheddar cheese, scallions, and chopped tomatoes ($4.50); peppercorn steak ($8.50); Carolina crab cakes ($8.95); and a “backyard burger” ($4.50). There are always a few daily specials, such as blackened bluefish with black beans and rice ($8.95), and chicken and shrimp etouffe ($8.25). There is an extensive take-out menu and a special brunch menu of omelettes, homemade biscuits and country gravy, and French toast with real Vermont maple syrup.
Art accompanying story in printed newspaper (not available in this archive): photo/Phara Fisco.
