People don’t ask “Do you want to eat Italian tonight?” anymore. Now everything’s Italian. Spaghetti joints have been replaced by ristorantes–and the trattorias that are supposed to be cheaper but aren’t–and pasta comes in every shape imaginable, even radiators. I don’t miss the limited menus of the past, but I still have an occasional craving for spaghetti with meatballs and garlic bread so potent you could only eat it if your date did too.
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The Rosebud Cafe was always a mob scene, but it’s nothing compared to the huddled masses waiting to be fed at Centro. Of course Centro is more conveniently located than Taylor Street, but what isn’t? After its first few weeks, the management gave up on taking reservations except for dinner at 5 or 5:30. After that, you’re on your own with the rest of the crowd. But these people are fighting for the chance to wait. They sip their Pinot Grigio, people-watch, and kiss-kiss like they’re in Beverly Hills.
During the summer it all starts at the outdoor cafe, where the customers watch the passersby and even more passersby watch the customers. Once inside, you stand with everyone else and wait for a table at the brass rail of the huge bar that takes up one side of the front room.
Along with the pastas, several chicken, fish, and veal dishes are available, including the usual chicken marsala and vesuvio, veal milanese, and mussels marinara. If only one of you orders a dinner salad, that’s what you get; but if two of you do, a huge bowl arrives full of greens.
Centro, at 710 N. Wells, serves lunch from 11 to 3 daily, and dinner from 5 to 10:30 Monday through Thursday, and 5 to 11:30 Friday and Saturday; they’re closed Sunday. They take major credit cards and have valet parking. For more information call 988-7775.
