My temptations revolve around clothes and desserts. My daily cheap thrill is to power-walk past the Gap at the corner of Division and Dearborn to see if they’ve gotten anything in stock that isn’t muddy burgundy, muddy green, muddy teal, or muddy plaid. Then, instead of turning east so I can see the other window, I have to keep on going straight so I won’t be tempted by Saint Germain’s French pastries. I can’t resist gelato either, but it’s impossible to avoid Italian restaurants.
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Saint Germain’s brightly striped awnings shade French doors, which can be opened in the summer to create a semioutdoor cafe. On your left as you enter is a gorgeous display of breads and pastries, cheeses, cold cuts, and salads–a technicolor, food stylist’s dream. Desserts are big deals in little packages. The petits fours ($.95-$1.25 each) and individual cakes ($4.30-$4.50) remind me of the doll food in Marshall Field’s old toy department. Though adorable to look at, they’re not exactly a good buy. Larger cakes, such as the Passion Fruit Bavarian that serves six, cost $23, and mini cookies (assorted chocolate, pistachio, raspberry, and coconut macaroons) are $12 a pound.
Cafe prices are more moderate than the bakery prices. Soups range from $2.90 to $3.50, sandwiches from $5.95 to $9.50, salads are $4.50 to $7.75, and regular-size gourmet pizzas, $7.50 to $7.95. There are always a few hot entrees on their plats du jour, such as ragout d’agneau au curry for $12.50, grilled double breast of chicken for $10.50, and steak frites for $15.50.
I went again with another friend, Enid. She was on a diet. Everyone’s on some kind of diet. My daughter Jill is on Jenny Craig. My daughter Lee won’t eat anything with a nervous system. I have one friend who’s a kosher vegetarian and a member of Overeaters Anonymous. The only way I can find out how anything tastes is to order it myself. I once went to a restaurant with three friends just so we could try a number of menu items, and they all insisted on ordering the same thing, what I wanted.
The “From Our Open Kitchen” page of the menu states: “The chefs at Saint Germain have been trained to pay special attention to your health concerns. Our alternative cooking techniques reduce calories, sodium and cholesterol while enhancing the natural flavors and qualities of the product.” I didn’t see any of those little heart-healthy symbols on the menu. From their menu to God’s ear.
