It appeared phoenixlike one recent afternoon as I was stuck hopelessly in the left-turn lane from Clark onto Ridge. Glancing at the southwest corner, I saw what appeared to be the shell of a restaurant, sans signage.

“Once these grills fire up they’ll be in business 24 hours a day, except Christmas Eve, forever,” Rehder says. North-side-dwelling sufferers of the occasional hankering for a slider need drive south or west no more.

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As he seasons the grill with onions, Rehder informs me that it takes 15 days of training before new workers are slider-ready.

Grill ready, we watch the first 30 sliders begin to steam upon the sizzling onion base. The distinctive five-holed frozen patties are seasoned with a salt-and-pepper mix (six salts to one pepper). The little buns are placed in rows on top of the mini burgers, the better to soak up that beefy, oniony juice.

And it does. The bun is moist, the sweet cooked onion contrasts brilliantly with the tart pickle. The meat is tender, not chewy. I beg for five more.